Long Range Hunting : One-Shot Cold Barrel Challenge!
Long Range Redux
I cannot set up and take a 700 yard cross-canyon sheep, elk, or deer kill shot confidently. Simply, I haven’t taken the time to prove to myself that I can execute that shot consistently. I’m not judging anyone who takes these longer shots. This isn’t my place in the world. I am here right now to challenge you though. Maybe even double-dog dare. Let’s explore here what it takes to make that shot and judge for yourself whether this is or can be in your bag of tricks.
Long range hunting has been around for a while. With the folks at Gunwerks especially adding to its popularity, a good number of hunters have increasingly become intrigued by taking big game animals at longer range. No doubt the right gear is capable of accomplishing the task. Rifles that can be coaxed into sub-0.5 MOA groups are attainable. The math that backs this shot up is also available. The bullets and cartridges have never been better than they are today.
So, what do you have left to worry about? Simply…you. What it all comes down to is the skill and the judgment of the hunter. Ringing the gong at 800 yards dozens of times per outing certainly helps you to know you can do it and to get better at it. Is that enough? Perhaps, but I don’t believe it is.
Factors Affecting Flight
At the risk of sounding a bit remedial, first let’s itemize the factors that affect a bullet’s flight:
Variability at the rifle, especially between the chamber and the crown of the muzzle – how the bullet is aligned in the chamber, the fit of the action to the rifle, and various aspects of the barrel finish and load crafting all affect the ability of a rifle to produce repeatable and tight groups.
Friction – air exerts friction on objects moving through it. The effect on the bullet is to slow it down. Ballistic coefficients help to estimate this, but they are only estimates and are inaccurate.
Gravity – they say what goes up must come down. Bullets start falling to earth the moment they leave the barrel.
Wind – wind is just giving some extra emphasis to the forces of friction in one particular direction.
Coriolis – the earth is spinning. When the bullet leaves your barrel, the earth spins out from under it while it is in flight. This changes point of impact, although it is imperceptible at closer ranges.
Bullet spin – the gyroscopic effect of a spinning bullet causes it to point ever so slightly off its axis. As it travels, this will impart a lateral displacement, notably at long distance.
Most long-range shooters understand friction and gravity very well. They also comprehend the impacts of wind speed on their bullet path. External ballistics calculators help us to capture nearly every variable mathematically. These models are so sophisticated that they can produce exceptionally accurate results. In computing, however, there is this little saying… “garbage in, garbage out”.
Variables
Let’s consider how many variables go into the ballistics calculator you use:
Table 1 : Typical factors affecting bullet path.
Muzzle Velocity |
Ballistic Coefficient |
Average Wind Speed |
Caliber |
Atmospheric Pressure |
Temperature |
Humidity |
Sight Height |
Elevation |
Bullet Weight |
Discrete Wind Speeds |
Wind Angle |
Coriolis |
Correction for Bullet Spin |
Muzzle Angle |
Most ballistics calculators will ask you for the first eight or nine factors. At 300 or even 500 yards, those might often be good enough. What’s the big difference between 33 inches and 34 inches? Imagine, however, that you have a dozen variables and you are trying to estimate wind speed and angle, humidity, elevation, atmospheric pressure, temperature, and muzzle velocity to make an 800 yard shot.
Can you see that every single one of these factors won’t be exactly correct? Even your muzzle velocity will have a spread of results. Your bullet ballistic coefficient is just an empirical approximation against a “standard projectile”. This non-dimensional number cannot accurately be used at all ranges and velocities. These are a lot of variables to manage.
Wind
The wind will often show different speeds and angles along the bullet path. The air density as a function of atmospheric pressure at your elevation, humidity, and temperature becomes vital as ranges get longer.
Just for example, a super-sleek 0.264” 142 grain Nosler Accubond Long Range boat-tail bullet leaving the barrel at a relative fast 3,000 fps produces the following wind-drift table at sea level and standard atmospheric conditions:
Table 2 – Wind Drift .264 cal. @ 3,000 fps MV (0.320 G7BC)
|
Wind Speed (mph) |
||
Range (yards) |
10 |
15 |
20 |
400 |
8.1 |
12.2 |
16.2 |
600 |
19.3 |
29.0 |
38.6 |
800 |
36.5 |
54.7 |
73.0 |
1000 |
60.8 |
91.2 |
121.6 |
Now, if this table doesn’t catch your attention, I’m concerned. If we take 800 yards as undeniably “long-range” you can see that being off by only 5 mph in your estimation of the wind speed will cause you to be off by about 18 inches! Even if you are only off by 2 mph in your estimation, you will be out by nearly 9 inches. This is a really big deal, considering your rifle is likely to already be off by several inches at that range! All of this assumes you nailed the atmospheric conditions perfectly, the bullet manufacturer is displaying an accurate ballistic coefficient, your muzzle velocity is really what you think it is, etc. etc.!
What is Possible?
Again, I’m not saying that long-range hunting is folly. Far from it. What I am saying is that long-range hunting is an awesome feat because it is very tricky. This takes a lot of knowledge, a desire to learn, a very sophisticated setup, ridiculous amounts of practice, and not just a small dose of humility.
Before we get to the challenge, let’s first make sure your rifle, load, and ballistics calculator are up to snuff. This is going to take at least some time at the range and probably at the reloading press. This all assumes you already have a rifle set up properly to produce 0.5 MOA groups at all ranges.
Calibrate
Job one is to calibrate your load for vertical prediction. You will need to shoot multiple groups at various ranges. I would suggest at least three ranges. First, go ahead and use the 100-yard range as a typical sight in. Then use your calculators to project your 400-yard point of impact. Shoot your 400-yard groups and take note of the average vertical point of impact of your groups. Then repeat the process at 800 yards. Was your vertical point of impact accurately predicted by your model?
You will need to examine your various inputs and rerun your ballistics model. Start by changing your 100-yard point of impact a bit (not more than 0.2 inches) in your model to get you closer on both. If that doesn’t work, then you need to start varying you ballistic coefficient. Try using the G1 and the G7 both. Were your atmospheric conditions right? Was your height of the center of your scope above the bore center correct? Do you know your muzzle velocity via chronograph or are you hoping to rely on published data (bad choice). A good resource can be found here.
If you cannot recalibrate your ballistic model to fit your 100, 400, and 800 yard results pretty darned close, then what use is your model? Once you’ve performed a careful calibration of the model, save it! You should now be able to vary atmospheric conditions to suit field needs. You are ready to begin.
Now? Practice
With your model calibrated at three different ranges, you should be able to accurately predict the vertical placement of your shot. Don’t worry about wind for now. If your model is calibrated well for vertical, it should be pretty close for wind, once you input it.
The next step would be to practice at various ranges. Silhouette shoots and leagues are great for this. Practice at all hunting ranges to prove to yourself you can hit the gong/vitals nearly every time at all the ranges you plan/hope to shoot. Nothing can really replace this practice. If you aren’t able to ring the gong consistently, you have no business taking the shot in the field. Range time allows you to get better at estimating wind and understanding why you miss.
The Cold-Barrel, One-Shot Challenge
Now, on to the challenge. I submit to you that, as a hunter, you must be able to call your shot with at least 80 percent chance of making a one-shot kill. One hundred percent is nearly impossible. Stuff happens. But 60 percent or 50 percent isn’t good enough, and maybe 90 percent should be the real goal. We can debate this, but it is up to you. I advise a minimum of 80 percent one-shot kills. Here’s how to prove this to yourself.
Every time you go to the range, set up a shot at what you believe to be your maximum hunting range. Let’s say it is 800 yards for example. Set that shot up and take it from a cold barrel, using only the measurements and estimates you take from the location of your rifle. For this challenge, only one shot is permitted each time you go to the range. Note your results. Did you hit the kill-zone on your first shot? Write it down. Now repeat this at least five times/trips to the range. If you took the kill zone on your first cold shot four out of five times, you are at a respectable 80 percent. If you didn’t, you fall short of that standard. Simple stuff.
It is critical that you take the shot only from a cold barrel and you only take one shot each time. First, the cold barrel yields a slightly different point of impact than follow-up shots. Second, you should only allow yourself a single chance to get all of the estimations and math correct. If you need a shot to confirm your windage, how will that work out for you in the field? Will that mean a missed elk, or worse, one that is gut-shot? That is exactly what that means, and you have no business taking a shot you can’t prove to yourself is at least an 80 percent certainty, at least on the first shot.
Conclusion
Really, since I am talking about five trips to the range for each distance you want to shoot, I’d recommend you start somewhere not too far north of your normal hunting range. Let’s say you are confident on elk to 400 yards. For me, the next question would probably arise around 600 yards. Based on your four out of five test at 600 successfully, judge those results first. If you rang them all convincingly, I’d try 800. If you barely made it, then I’d try 700. Stop when you fall below your standard. Go back to the range and practice until something gets better. Otherwise, know your limit and stick to it.
The whole point here is to prove to yourself that you and your rig and its load can make a one-shot kill at least 80 percent of the time. To restate it a different way, I’d be willing to bet the average person buying a long-range setup trusts far too much to their own ability. Instead of trusting your setup, prove it to yourself. Then you can reply with confidence when challenged by some know-it-all. More importantly, you know for a fact that you are making an ethical shot and upholding your responsibility as a hunter.
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